It has often been said that Vietnam was a country before it was a war and now it is a country again --- and a very lovely one indeed. Vietnam has been slowly recovering from its troubled past when it was always making headlines, usually for all the wrong reasons. Continuous war and economic hardship caused suffering on a huge scale but a booming tourist industry is helping to bring prosperity again.
The country's struggle against foreign invaders lasted a millennium followed by more than 20 years of being divided between North and South Vietnam. The country was finally united in 1975. Times were not easy afterward. Until the early nineties Vietnam was virtually isolated from the outside world due to political circumstances, licking its wounds after many years of war. The early nineties saw a change in both political policy and economic fortune. Vietnam reached out to the outside world and invited foreigners back to the country. Slowly Vietnam has been opening up for tourism. After a shaky start most restrictions have been lifted, allowing visitors free travel. Several border-crossings with neighbouring Laos and Cambodia have opened up and make for exiting overland routes.
Roughly the size of Italy Vietnam stretches more than 2000 km from the Mekong Delta to the Chinese border, harboring an enormous variety of landscapes, climates and ethnic groups. Apart from the Vietnamese, also known as "kinh", who form the majority of the population Vietnam has 54 different ethnic minorities, some of whom definitely look exotic.
The Mekong Delta is the rice bowl of Vietnam. The delta is characterised by vast rice fields, rolling fruit plantations, picturesque villages, the famous "monkey bridges" and thousands of boats of all shapes and sizes that ply the intricate passages of this vast, veritable "Waterworld". The best way to explore the lush, verdant Delta is by boat.
Further north, at the mouth of the Saigon River, lies the former capital of South Vietnam. After the reunification in 1975, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City. This vibrant city is at the vanguard of economic and political reform. Ho Chi Minh City, for example, has the highest density of mobile phone use in Vietnam and an entire generation seems to be mounted on motorbikes.
To get a genuine feeling of experiencing "the real Asia", roam through the bustling streets of Cholon, the Chinatown of Ho Chi Minh City, and explore a host of fascinating historical sites, pagodas and markets.
Dong Khoi street, the former Rue Catinat, exemplifies the glory of this city, once called the Paris of the Orient. Have a drink at the famous rooftop bar of the Rex hotel and at the sidewalk cafes immortalized by writers from Graham Greene to Michael Herr. The former palace of the Presidents of South Vietnam has been turned into a museum that provides visitors with a valuable historical education.
From Ho Chi Minh City, we can make daytrips to Tay Ninh, the seat of the mysterious Cao Dai religion and the Cu Chi tunnels, impervious to American bombing and proof of the tenacity of the Vietcong during the Vietnam War.
Driving north the former hill station Dalat is, at 1500 metres altitude, a delightful place to stop over for a few days. Dalat is a veritable outdoor museum of French colonial architecture, undulating amid the highlands north of Ho Chi Minh City. There are plenty of tea and coffee plantations and an abundance of fresh vegetables. Vietnams natural environment and biodiversity has suffered from years of war, ruthless exploitation and population pressure. But gradually nature conservation and wildlife protection have gained a foothold. Nam Cat Tien National Park is one of the best examples of Vietnam's dedication to preserve its natural environment and biodiversity.
The Central Highlands, north of Dalat, was the scene of some of the fiercest fighting during the American Vietnam War. The landscape is still scarred. Coffee plantations and "Montagnard" villages dot the rolling hills of Ban Methuot, Pleiku and Kontum. Here is the homeland of various ethnic minorities like the Jarai and Rhade, related to Polynesian stock, inhabiting longhouses and laying out peculiar cemeteries.
Returning to the coast, we can travel northward for hundreds upon hundred of kilometers along a seemingly endless coast, encountering the magnificent sand dunes of Phan Thiet and the pristine beaches of Nha Trang. Along this same coast are the remnants of the once powerful Cham kingdom. Their towers that dot the landscape served as beacons for this seafaring people. The Cham towers of Phan Rang and Nha Trang and the ruins at My Son are testimony to the heritage of a virtually unknown culture.
We continue our journey to Hoi An. The former Faifo, Hoi An was an important port in centuries past and remains a charming relic with Chinese congregation houses and narrow ancient streets. Pausing in our wanderings, we stop in one of the many small restaurants offering the famous delicacy Cao Lao. Close to Hoi An, on the way to Danang, lies China Beach, formerly an R&R site for American soldiers during the Vietnam War.
Vietnam's delightful hill stations, a legacy from colonial times, are a perfect escape from the sweltering heat from the coastal cities and the steamy deltas of the Red River and the Mekong. The hill stations Bach Ma and Bana are close to Danang. Bach Ma is a paradise for birdwatchers.
The former imperial capital Hue is the site of the Forbidden Purple City, badly damaged during the Tet Offensive in 1968. It has been laboriously restored since then. Around Hue are the tombs of the emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty. They can be visited in combination with a boat trip on the Perfume River and a visit to the Tien Mu Pagoda.
The Ben Hai bridge is the symbolic separation between South and North Vietnam. It features in day trips to various sites in the former "demilitarized zone" - better known under its acronym DMZ - that once separated North and South Vietnam.
Travelling from the Ben Hai bridge to Hanoi one passes deserted beaches, rugged limestone formations and towns like Vinh and Dong Hoi which were partly destroyed in the war. Close to Vinh is Kim Lien, the place where Ho Chi Minh was born. South of Hanoi rear up the dramatic limestone outcroppings of Tam Coc and Hoa Lu.
Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, exudes a totally different atmosphere than the bustling Ho Chi Minh City. Its wide, tree-lined streets, beautiful lakes and Old French Quarter give Hanoi a decidedly agreeable character. Very densely populated, Hanoi buzzes with activity from as early as 5 AM. For early risers the sight of Vietnamese exercising around the mystical Hoan Kiem Lake is quite unforgettable. The queues of Vietnamese who line up to catch a glimpse of the embalmed body of Uncle Ho is a stirring spectacle in itself. Roaming through the streets and alleys of the Old French Quarter is an experience of constant and delightful discovery. Hanoi also boasts excellent restaurants and priceless colonial hotels.
Vietnams most exotic ethnic minorities live in the North, mainly along the border. Most popular is the former French hill station Sapa, at the foot of Pan Si Fan, Vietnam's highest mountain. Reached by comfortable sleeper train Sapa is a wonderful place to spend a couple of days to exploring surrounding Hmong, Dzay and Red Zao villages.
For those who have more time a trip to places like Bac Ha, Tam Duong, Dien Bien Phu, Mai Chau and Son La is to come face to face with exotic ethnic minorities of Sino-Tibetan and Thai descent. The excellent ethnology museum in Hanoi offers the perfect introduction to a visit to the ethnic minorities of Northern Vietnam.
Returning to sea level, we come to Halong Bay, a must-see for visitors to Vietnam. Hundreds of limestone outcroppings dot a vast area of ocean. A boat trip is the best way to enjoy this dramatic scenery.
The highlights of Vietnam can be visited in two weeks. But many make several return trips for a more in-depth exploration of a fascinating land.
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